Bldc tool 2.5412/11/2022 My point on the block breaks is only that they wear rapidly under hard use and as they wear you need to adjust the brakes to keep them working where the disk brake varieties have a very thin wear pad and should never need adjusting just replacing the pads once they wear out and that they wear out stupendously slowly (I wore through many many block brakes on my old bike, the most recent one came with a disk and its still got life on it after greater use and because of its nature I’ve not once had to adjust the pads to keep it working!). ![]() I know damn well you can lock up with the simple block brakes, in fact I’d call it easy to do (though they do tend to require more human effort to work at the same level than the disk varieties). You can easily at normal human cycling speeds brake hard enough to lift the rear wheel even as you lean to compensate on some bike tyres, going that much faster and doing the same isn’t improving the brakes its just throwing you off the bike (I don’t see that as all that likely as I don’t think any bicycle tyre will actually have enough grab – I’m expecting it to skid and be ruined by that instead if you try to improve stopping distance).īicycle brakes are bicycle brakes – really doesn’t matter which ones you use they all stop you in pretty much the same time. Much like motorcycle sidecars are bloody lethal things if you aren’t prepared for it and turn the ‘wrong’ direction at too great a speed. Or assume a nice sticky tyre and its going to grab the road properly and because you have so much extra kinetic energy with nowhere else to go over the handlebars is a certainty. ![]() Double that (and more?) and lock up and you are going to trash that tyre on the road surface really damn fast as you have put so much extra energy though it! I am saying nothing of the sort – I’m saying that IMPROVING the braking performance on a bike is limited by the tyre/road interface and how high your COM is.Īt a fast human cycling pace locking your front wheel up is only going to graze a small amount off the tyre surface before it does stop you. Posted in Transportation Hacks Tagged bicycle, bike, BLDC, brushless dc, custom, ebike, ebikes, electronics, motor, washing machine Post navigation A few more improvements for the build are in the works, including improved batteries and a cover for the sides to keep the local law enforcement from getting too suspicious. reports speeds of 110 kph which is a little crazy for a 20-year-old aluminum frame bike, and we’d guess it’s not street legal in many jurisdictions, but we can’t really find much fault with this build in general based on the amount of innovation required to get this working at all. Everything except the motor has been custom fabricated including the mounts and the electronics. The crank has also been specially modified to include a freewheel, a necessary feature so that the motor can operate without spinning the pedals. It has a chain driving the bike’s crank, retaining the original chain and gearing setup (unlike many electric bike hacks that utilize hub motors). ![]() It has been slightly modified to run on 48 volts, and is installed inside the triangle of the bike’s frame. The drive train of this bicycle starts with a brushless DC motor from a washing machine. ![]() creation is one of the most hacked-together yet functional electric vehicle we’ve seen in a long time. The “Spin Cycle” is an amazing electric bicycle built using a motor salvaged from a washing machine when the puns are this perfect you have to roll with them.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply.AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |